Tomme de Savoie

Tomme de Savoie

Tomme de Savoie

Vegetarian – Suitable Cheese

Made in the French Alps, this cow’s milk semi-soft cheese earned its PDO certification in 1992.

This mild cheese, made from the skimmed milk left over after the cream is used to make butter and richer cheeses, is a favorite of my lovely Mathilda, cat-owner of The Lady’s dear friend, Sue. As  a result, the fat content of this cheese is relatively low, usually between 20 and 45%. This cheese is made all-year around and has a slightly different character depending on whether the cows are being hay fed (winter) or grass fed (spring and summer). You can sometimes taste the grass if the milk comes from the spring and summer milkings.

The cheese has a lovely ivory color with a thick brown rind. It is often referred to as a “peasants’ Cheese”.

Bit of trivia: Tomme is a generic term and means “wheel of cheese” and is usually followed by the name of the village or region where it is made.

I give Tomme de Savoie 3 Paws out of 4 Paws (cause that’s all I’ve got).

Serving suggestions: This cheese pairs well with sausages, nuts and fruits such as pears and plums.

Wine Pairings: Medium-bodied red wines from the Cotes du Rhone or Alsace Riesling

Beer Pairings: Gueuze Girardin

Source: Cow’s Milk

Pont l’Eveque and National Hazelnut Day

Today is National Hazelnut Day…who knew…and, for the most part, who cares??? Well, my guess is the Hazelnut Growers Association, which most likely came up with the idea to immortalize today…

Therefore, in honor of this esteemed day, I declare today Pont l’Eveque Day…

Why you ask?  It’s simple; Pont l’Eveque tastes a bit like hazelnuts…voila…

Pont l’Eveque is made in the Normandy region of France and according to Wikipedia.org, is quite possibly the oldest Norman cheese still in production, dating back as far as the Twelfth Century. It is believed to have been invented by Monks in an Abbey…why am I not surprised??? Those Monks had lots of time on their hands…so to speak…and came up with some amazingly divine cheeses, beers and liqueurs. I have discussed this in a previous blog entry and my thoughts about Monks with time on their hands. I suspect that entry was in part responsible for the banning of my blog by the fine people at DPI…but I digress…

Pont l’Eveque is an uncooked, unpressed cheese shaped in squares of three sizes, which is one of the requirements for its AOC-designated status. The square The Lady brought home for me to sample was in a little 2 ½ inch square bamboo box. On the top of the box is a picture of Marie Harel, who is credited with inventing Camembert Cheese “back in the day” (1791 or around that time). 

The Lady let this cheese sit out and it began to fill the kitchen with an earthy, pungent, yet pleasant smell, as is to be expected from a washed-rind cheese. Inside was a creamy, pale yellow pate with a smooth texture. The rind was a bit on the orange side and when she pressed her finger into its top, it showed some elasticity. In addition to the hazelnut overtones, there was the taste of mushrooms and very pleasing on the palate.

The Lady served Pont l’Eveque with Beecher’s Hazelnut Crackers to further celebrate this important holiday that every hazelnut grower in Oregon  is enjoying while drinking a glass of Rogue Hazelnut Brown Nectar.  

If you haven’t planned your evening, it’s not too late to raise a glass and enjoy National Hazelnut Day with a square of Pont l’Eveque, a cheese as popular in France as any Brie, Camembert or Roquefort.

I give Pont l’Eveque 3 Paws out of 4 Paws (cause that’s all I’ve got). I like this cheese; but I must confess it is not Epoisses…

Serving Suggestions: Serve at room temperature on Beecher’s Hazelnut Crackers and a few slices of apples.

Wine Pairings: French Condrieu, Champagne, Gamay, Calvados

Beer Pairings: Rogue Hazelnut Brown Nectar

Source: Pasteurized Cows’ Milk

Istara’s Family of Cheeses – Part One – Ossau Iraty

Istara's Ossau-Iraty

Legend has it that Aristee, the sheep herder son of Apollo created this cheese.

 

Today the best version of this cheese is produced by the Benedictine Monks of the Belloc Abbey in the Western Pyrenees. You may recall my thoughts about why Monks produce the best cheeses, wines and liqueurs and based on this cheese, the defense rests…

This French semi-firm cheese is probably the least known of the AOC designated cheeses, a designation it received in 1980. As of the late 1990s there were only about 2000 farmers producing the milk for this exquisite cheese. This is a creamy and nutty cheese with a gentle richness that is quite pleasing. Its rind is edible with a slightly tart aftertaste. The cheese is a soft, light ivory color with the fragrance of toasted hazelnuts. To develop the nutty flavor and fragrance, it should be aged for at least ninety days.

This cheese is so pleasing to the palate that it can be served before or after dinner; actually it can be served before and after dinner.

The Lady’s friend, John, claims this as his favorite cheese. John has very good taste in this feline foodie’s humble opinion…and I’m not blowing smoke…well, maybe a little…

A bit of trivia: In Pays Basque and Bearn, the nickname of Ossau Iraty is “farmer’s dessert”.

I give Istara’s Ossau Iraty 4 Paws out of 4 Paws (cause that’s all I’ve got).

Serving suggestions: Excellent as a table cheese with a marmalade or fig spread such as Ficoco or Dalmatia Fig-Orange Spread. It also goes well with proscuitto and a baguette…of course, what doesn’t go well with proscuitto and baguettes…nothing in this feline foodie’s book of “what goes well with…”.

Wine pairings: Margaux or a smoky Pouilly-Fume

Fat content: 50%

Awards: 2006 World Cheese Award

Source: Raw Sheep’s’ Milk; primarily the milk of the Manech naiser ewes

Up next: Istara’s P’tit Basque

The Traveling Gruyere Wheel

Gruyere

Vegetarian – Suitable Cheese

When the Cheese Kiosk opened, The Lady told The Man about two wheels of cheese that were to be used as displays. One was a wheel of Parmigiano-Reggiano (Grassi) and the other was Gruyere (Emmi).

 

Both were displayed with pride and eventually both were cracked, cut, wrapped and sold. Both cheeses, even at close to $20 a pound, are well liked and need little “selling”. Their quality and popularity sell them easily enough.

 

However, the story of this particular Gruyere wheel is quite interesting.

 

According to The Lady, the grocery chain originally purchased it two years ago to be used as a “prop” in their first Cheese Kiosk. The Lady thinks it was a store in Portland but she is not sure. As more kiosks opened in the chain, this wheel made its way from store to store; used for a few months and then sent on its way. Eventually, it made its way to The Lady’s Cheese Kiosk. The local store “lore” had it sitting in the trunk of one Company Manager for a couple of weeks. (Thank goodness, the weather is cool around here most of the time…)

 

It was dirty and it smelled like really dirty socks according to The Lady. When customers walked by, especially children, they turned their noises up and the children often wanted to know who had…well you know how kids are…

 

After a few months, The Lead Cheese Steward decided it was time to crack the wheel open and see it was salvagable. First they had to clean it, using kosher salt and a lot of something called “elbow grease”. The Lady said the cleaning took about three hours before it was ready to be opened. The Lady and her Lead used the same tools of picks and chisels that are used on a Parmigiano-Reggiano wheel and began the task of cracking it in half.

 

As it cracked in half, they knew they had a winner; the aroma was intoxicating. Both of them tasted it and thought they had died and gone to cheese heaven…it was divine according to The Lady. And it was filled with those flavor crystals that come only with age.

 

Keep in mind, Emmi cave-ages Gruyere for at least a year before releasing the wheel for sale. This particular wheel had wandered from store-to-store in the Northwest before landing at The Lady’s Kiosk. This baby was at least three years old.

 

They cut it into quarters and sold the first quarter in less than twenty-four hours. They sold the entire wheel in less than two weeks. The wheel weighed close to eighty pounds…you do the math.

 

The Lady brought two pieces home for The Man and the Cat. It was like nothing I have ever tasted with the exception of Epoisses (goes without saying…). It is nutty, crumbly, melts in your mouth…one fine cheese. And those flavor crystals just burst and leave you wanting more. As usual, I had to fight The Man two falls out of three to get my fair share…geez…

 

Although from Switzerland, this is not a Swiss cheese in the “normal” sense of the word.

I give Gruyere 4 Paws out of 4 Paws (cause that’s all I’ve got).

 

Serving Suggestions: Gruyere is one of the main cheeses in “traditional” fondue (Emmenthaler is the other). You may recall, The Lady used those two cheeses in the fondue (inside the pumpkin) that she made for Thanksgiving. You can use it for cooking; especially for gratins. It is also wonderful alone, on a cracker or served with pears and apples. I had hoped for a nice pate of Rangifer tarandus to try with the Gruyere. The Lady said no. and mumbles something about someone named Rudolph and not wanting his demise on her soul.

 

Wine Pairings: Because Gruyere has a robust taste; you should pair it with an equally robust, heart wine such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon or a good quality Burgundy.

 

Beer Pairings: A malty Bock such as Munich Dunkel or Oktoberfest, also a holiday beer with fruity and spicy overtones would pair well with Gruyere.

 

Source: Cow’s Part skim milk.

Fromager d’Affinois and “Ultrafiltration”

Fromager d'Affinois

If it comes from France, if it comes from cow’s milk, if it is soft-ripened and if it has a soft, bloomy rind…it must be Brie. Not necessarily.

Fromager d’Affinois has all of these same elements as Brie, but it is NOT Brie. It is, at best, a cousin.

Thanks to a process develpoed two decades ago by Fromagerie Guilloteau called ultrafiltration, Fromager d”Affinois has a silkier texture than Brie and its sweet, milder flavor does not have the earthy mushroom taste that Brie boasts.

Ultrafiltration enables this cheese to be ready for the market in two weeks while Brie usually takes about eight weeks. This process removes water from the milk before the cheesemaking process is started. In traditional cheesemaking, the curds are drained to discard the whey. With ultrafiltration this is not necessary because the water has already been removed.

The cheese has more protein and calcium giving it a higher nutrient content and a much more creamy texture. Even though it is a double cream, its texture would make you think it were a triple cream. It looks more like creme brulee (without the crust) than a cheese.

Fromager d”affinois is the cat’s meow. I could eat this cheese all day long, if The Man would let me. He seems to think that “specialty” cheeses are reserved only for humankind. If he only knew the luxuries I have experienced in my many lives, in many Quandrants throughout the galaxies…

Do not heat this cheese. Because of its texture and lack of water, it will turn to liquid.

I give Fromager d”affinois 4 out of 4 Paws (cause that’s all I got).

Serving suggestions: Best spread on a baguette or a cracker.

Wine and Beer suggestions:

Wine Suggestions: A sparkling wine or champagne is the only way to go with this cheese.

Source: Cow’s milk.

Please note:

Guilloteau also makes a similar cheese, Florette, which is made from goat’s milk. The Lady has advised me she won’t be bringing this cheese home. I have asked her friend and Co-Worker, Becky, to sneak some for me to taste and review. My thoughts will appear as soon as Becky delievers the goods in a brown paper wrapper – made of parchment, of course…

French Brie

Some humankind once said “Real men don’t eat quiche…” but according to The Lady, real men do eat French Brie and lots of it. The airscreen case at the cheese kiosk is devoted almost exclusively to Brie and similar soft, more fragile cheeses.

The Lady suggested that I take the time to taste and review several of them. After spending the time necessary to taste and rate these fine cheeses, I took a long nap in my new hidey hole under the Christmas Tree…

There are no other cheeses quite like Brie. You can do so much with it; eat it at room temperature, bake it; eat it as an appetizer; as an entrée and even as dessert. I find it even goes well with a pate of my personal favorite, Sciurus carolinensis; which I first sampled while on patrol in the Southeast Quadrant of the US…another life…another time.

 

Brie is a soft cheese, traditionally served at room temperature. It is usually a pale yellow with a bit of grey and a white, thin edible rind (called bloomy rind). It tastes creamy with a hint of a salty and savory blend. It has a hint of ammonia, which gets stronger as the Brie matures.

 

Charlemagne, according to legend, fell in love with Brie and that propelled it to national attention and popularity in eighth century France; and as they say, the rest is history.

 

It is produced in the Seine-et-Marne region of France and traditionally is made with unpasteurized milk. Because of US laws prohibiting the importing of young cheeses made from raw milk, the French Brie humankinds know and eat tends to be milder than that enjoyed in France and other parts of the world where import laws on raw milk products are more lax or do not exist.

 

The Lady tells me that the AOC designated Bries (there are 2) are not imported for the above reason and therefore are not available in the US.

 

The cheese kiosk does carry four French Bries and I will review them, in no particular order.

 

Brie de Nangis

Vegetarian – Suitable Cheese

 

Brie de Nangis

 

 

Brie de Nangis from the well-respected Rouzaire Company is the low temperature-pasteurized side of Brie de Meaux. It has a firmer paste but is buttery, milky and sweet. As it matures, its chalky center becomes more liquefied and tastes of mushrooms and black truffles.

 

Originally it was produced in the city of Nangis; but now is produced in the “Brie Capital” of Ile-de-France. Like Epoisses, it almost disappeared from production, but following WWII, it has enjoyed its own revival in popularity.

 

Of the Brie I have sampled, Nangis is my favorite.

 

I give Brie de Nangis 3 out of 4 Paws (cause that’s all I’ve got).

 

Serving Suggestions: Like all Bries, Nangis is versatile and can be served in numerous ways. At room temperature, it spreads smoothly on crackers or bread. It can be served with fruit. It can be used in baking. It can be encrusted in Phyllo dough and stuffed with fruit, nuts, mushrooms – pretty much anything…

 

The Lady likes to take a quarter wedge of a Nangis wheel, split it with a wire cutter and fill it with lemon curd and fresh blueberries. She then put the top half on and repeats the process on top to make a cake-like “Topped Brie”. She sold one prepared this way at the kiosk this week for just under $17.00. It sold within an hour of its preparation. (She used an entire package – 5 ounces – of blueberries and about a third of a jar of Dickinson’s Lemon Curd). I never saw it; but The Lady told The Man it was beautiful when presented and the customer was thrilled. She has also split a quarter wedge and layered it with Mascarpone (Italian cream cheese used to make her favorite dessert, tiramisu) and fresh strawberries, raspberries and blueberries. Again, the finished topped Brie is under $20.00.

 

Wine and Beer Pairings:

 

Wine Pairings: Champagne, Merlot, Beaujolais, Burgundy

 

Beer Pairings: Euro-lagers, pilsners, pal ales, porters, American fruit ales.

 

Source: Pasteurized Cow’s Milk

 

Le Chatelain

 

copyright 2009 igourmet.com

 

 

According to The Lady, this is the most popular French Brie that she sells at the Kiosk. It has a more pungent smell and tangier taste than the Nangis. It is also more the color of butter. The rind is thick and patterned, which makes it easily recognizable. The taste is buttery and creamy on the palate. It spreads well, particularly on a baguette with a slice of ham or Ambystomatidae.

 

I give Le Chatelain 3 out of 4 Paws (cause that’s all I’ve got).

 

Serving Suggestions: Like Nangis, the possibilities are endless as to how you serve this particular Brie. Eat it on a baguette, bake it, and serve it with fruit.

 

Wine and Beer Pairings: Same as Nangis

 

Source: Pasteurized Cow’s Milk

 

Saint Albray

Vegetarian – Suitable Cheese

 

Copyright 2009 frenchcheese.co.uk

 

 

After being ripened for two weeks, Saint Albray Brie is pressed and then fashioned into a shape similar to a flower, with each petal weighing about a half pound. The “petals” are centered on a disk, which when removed, makes a hole that looks like the center of a flower. It is tangy and quite smelly. I have learned that often (as with Epoisses) a cheese does not necessarily taste the way it smells; and most of the time, that is a very good thing. It looks like gritty, sandy granite but it has a very creamy texture.

 

The Lady tells me that people who are partial to Camembert choose this Brie as a substitute.

 

I give Saint Albray 3 out of 4 Paws (cause that’s all I got).

 

Serving Suggestions: The same as above.

 

Wine and Beer Pairings: The same as above.

 

Source: Cow’s Milk.

 

 

Le Forgerus

 

Copyright 2009 recipetips.com

 

 

This is the most expensive of the Bries that are sold at the cheese kiosk. It retails for around $29.99 a pound. It is a mild, creamy cheese similar to Coulommiers and is produced in the same area as this better-known cheese. It has a mild sweet taste with a slightly salty after taste. It is best at room temperature and goes very well with raisin bread.

 

I give Le Forgerus 3 out of 4 Paws (cause that’s all I’ve got).

 

Serving Suggestions: As above.

 

Wine and Beer Pairings: As above.

 

Source: Cow’s Milk

French Mimolette

Mimolette

The Lady tells me that this cheese is a recent addition at the Kiosk and has been well received by the customers. I’m willing to bet she hasn’t told any of them that the grayish, dusty crust is the result of cheese mites that munch on the rind to add flavor caused by their action on the surface. Humans are so wimpy that I think that would stop many of them from trying this delicious cheese.

This French cheese comes from the area around Lille and sometimes from Belgium and Holland. Evidently Louis XIV wanted a French cheese that resembled Edam…voila. However, also at his request, it was colored orange.

It is shaped like a large ball; almost the size of a soccer ball and the cheese is the color of cantaloupe or even pumpkin. This is the aged version of the cheese. The younger version tastes more like Parmesan and the aged tastes more like hazelnuts; a little salty with a slight spicy aftertaste.

I give it 3 Paws out of 4 Paws (because that’s all I’ve got…)

Serving Suggestions: It is a good choice for a cheese board; add it to salads, grated into an omelet and other cooked dishes such as Mac and cheese. I find that it pairs well with Ondatra zibethicus. Lucky for me, they are plentiful in the wetlands north of Salmon Creek. The Lady likes to pair it with an apple.

Wine and Beer Pairings:

Wine Pairings: Chianti and Sangiovese pair well with the “dusty” qualities of this cheese. Also pairs well with dessert wines and Port.

Beer Pairings: Acme Brown Ale

Source: Cow’s Milk

Six French Cheeses

The Lady was explaining to The Man how the cheese kiosk is laid out and I thought I might use her “blueprint” as the basis for my next set of reviews. Today, I’d like to talk about French cheeses.

In a previous life, I lived in the Mountain Quadrant of Europa where many cheeses were created and have become famous earthwide. I heard The Lady mention there are more than 25,000 cheeses that originate in France; from the softest and yummiest of triple-crèmes to semi-hard cheeses and every kind in between. I plan to discuss triple-crèmes and Bries in separate listings.

Chaumes

Vegetarian – Suitable Cheese

 

Chaumes

 

Based upon traditional Trappist-style cheeses, Chaumes is a popular cheese with children. It is a semi-soft cheese with a mild flavor. It is creamy and has a somewhat rubbery texture. It has a bright tangerine-orange rind that appears after several washes of the crust. It is also brushed with ferments, which adds to its light, pleasant aroma.

The Lady says that everytime they “sample” Chaumes at the kiosk, they sell at least two wheels. Holy catnip, that’s a lot of this yummy, creamy cheese.

It is matured for four weeks.

I give Chaumes 3 Paws out of 4 Paws (cause that’s all I’ve got).

Serving Suggestions: The Lady serves it with rice crackers but I much prefer to eat mine with a charcuterie that includes smoked passerines. I also find that taurine-rich spiders make a nice garnish for any cheese platter. Chaumes is also good for grilling.

Wine and Beer Pairings:

Wine Pairings: Mellow dry to sweet white wine such as: Jurancon, Rosette or Haut-Montravel. Or Dry red such as: Marmandais, Frontonnais, Bergerac,Tursan., or Valpolicella, or even a strong dry cider

Beer Pairings: Boris, Full Moon, Guinness,

Source: Cow’s Milk

Morbier

 

Copyright 2009 interfrance.com

 

Morbier is an aromatic and mild cheese with the dark vein of vegetable ash streaking through its middle of ivory-colored pate. The streak is homage to how it was produced in Franche-Comté when it was actually two layers of cheese. The bottom layer was the morning milk and the top layer was the evening milking. Aged at least 60 days, Morbier has a nutty aftertaste. This is an AOC-protected cheese.

I give it 3 Paws out of 4 Paws (cause that’s all I’ve got).

Serving Suggestions: Serve with a mild bead, crackers nuts and grapes.

Wine and Beer Pairings:

Wine Pairings: Burgundy, Red Beaujolais, Sancerre

Beer Pairings: Velvet Fog

Source: Cow’s milk

Raclette

Vegetarian – Suitable Cheese

 

Copyright 2009 raclette.us

 

Raclette, known as the melting cheese, is a semi-firm, salted cheese. Varieties exist made with white wine, pepper, herbs, or smoked. The cheese originated in the Swiss canton of Valais, but is today also produced in the French regions of Savoie and Franche-Comté. In Europe there are grills manufactured especially to melt the cheese and grill vegetables, charcuterie and sometimes seafood. Diners create their own little “packages” of food, top them with the raclette and place them in the grill to melt and brown the cheese. Think of this as a fondue meets a Korean BBQ. Sometimes, they simply put the cheese on bread and grill that in the machine. Restaurants in Europe offer “raclette evenings” for dining parties. You can buy a raclette machine at Sur La Table for around $75.00.

I give Raclette 3 Paws out of 4 Paws (cause that’s all I’ve got).

Serving Suggestions: It is perfect melted on slabs of bread.

Wine and Beer Pairings:

Wine Pairings: Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc

Beer Pairings: Belgium Blonde Beers

Source: Cow’s Milk

Cantalet

Vegetarian – Suitable Cheese

 

Cantalet

 

Cantalet is an ancestor of the traditional British Farmhouse Cheeses. It is a wonderful, semi-hard cheese from the central mountainous region of Auvergne, Cantalet is a cheddar-like cheese cured with salt, which brings out its full flavor. Heavy and moist, young Cantalet has a sweet, milk flavor; well-aged, it has a sharper flavor. This cheese is also protected by the AOC.

I give Cantalet 4 Paws out of 4 Paws (cause that’s all I’ve got).

Serving Suggestions: Because it is a cheddar-style cheese, it melts well in sandwiches. You can also crumble it into salads or serve it sliced with pears, apples and grapes.

Wine and Beer Pairings:

Wine Pairings: Merlot, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, and Gewurztraminer

Beer Pairings:

Source: Cow’s Milk

Comte

Vegetarian – Suitable Cheese

 

Comte

 

Comté is another AOC-protected cheese (The French take their cheeses very seriously and this distinction is kind of like a copyright for cheeses). Italy, Spain and England are also into protecting their cheeses; both in name and how they are made. The consumer can rest assured that an AOC-protected cheese will taste the same regardless of what decade, or even century it is made.

One of the most popular cheeses in France, Comté is produced in the rich mountain pastures of the Jura. Its firm and supple pâte, with tiny holes, has a nutty, slightly salty yet sweet taste. Small, cooperative dairies known as fruitières produce Comté year-round. As this cheese ages, the taste of hazelnut and nutmeg makes its way into this cheese.

I love this cheese and anytime The Lady brings it home; I fight The Man two falls out of three for the last morsel.

I give Comte 4 Paws out of 4 Paws (cause that’s all I’ve got).

Serving Suggestions: This cheese is great alone, served with grapes and also melts well and is excellent in potato or other veggie gratins. It is also a perfect cheese to top French Onion Soup.

Wine and Beer Pairings:

Wine Pairings: Dry whites or Light Reds

Beer Pairings: Anchor Porter, Rogue Shakespeare Stout, Brown Ales

Source: Raw Cow’s Milk

Fol Epi

Vegetarian – Suitable Cheese

 

Fol Epi

 

Fol Epi’s rind is made from toasted wheat flour. This pressed, uncooked French gourmet cheese is produced in Pays de Loire, an area long known for its dairy produce. In French, Fol Epi means ‘wild wheat stalk’, a fitting name for this unique loaf with perfect eye formation.

Fol Epi is matured for three months and has a pleasant, nutty and fruity taste. Although similar in taste to a Swiss Emmental, Fol Epi is sweeter and less bitter, making it ideal for a sensitive palate. Fol Epi is very protein-rich; a perfect choice for the health-conscious gourmet cheese lover.

In order to comply with US FDA regulation for export to the USA the maturation of this cheese has been extended to over 60 days.

I give Fol Epi 3 Paws out of 4 Paws (cause that’s all I’ve got).

Serving Suggestions: This cheese goes well with Crackers and Bread, Fruits and melted like other Swiss-style cheeses. Because it is a bit on the mild side, I prefer pairing it will with jerked Sus scrofa scrofa.

Wine and Beer Pairings:

Wine Pairings: White Burgundy, Chenin Blanc

Beer Pairings: Wheat Beers

Source: Raw Cow’s Milk