September 11, 2011
Miranda discusses her cheese club and her passion for cheese in an interview with CBS-Affiliate KOLN’s own Lance Schwartz. Please click on the link below to see this charming interview:
The Lady visited a newer, independent and family owned grocer in the Vancouver area, Chuck’s Produce and Street Market. It opened last fall but The Lady rarely heads that way when she runs errands or shops. In truth, The Lady hates shopping; a trait I understand is rare in humankinds of the female persuasion. But on this particular day, she had been training a new Cheesemonger at another store in her chain and Chuck’s was on her way home to the manse… one more cynical than I might call this “spying” on the competition…
First a bit about Chuck’s. This is a really cool store. Spacious with lots of open areas and easy access to the products it sells. Lots of organic and local produce at reasonable prices. The store is clean and there’s an old flatbed Ford, which is cool, sitting in the produce area merchandised with items sold in the store… I wonder if that flatbed Ford ever drove by my corner in Winslow, Arizona?
The store is closed on Saturdays for “Family Day” – what a cool thing to do… The store has an amazing meat and seafood counter but sell no pork products and no shellfish. The ono and tuna are sushi-grade quality; the ready-to-cook chicken dishes are mouth-wateringly beautiful: flattened chicken breast wrapped around asparagus with herbs and fat-free cream cheese – The Lady was glad she wasn’t hungry… a terrible time to food shop. The bakery and the deli offer freshly baked goodies and prepared dishes with competitive prices. Did I mention that this is one cool store??? They also have a huge bulk food area loaded with interesting natural and organic selections.
Of course, The Lady was there to see the cheese area. The store has a very respectable selection and she had a chance to chat with their cheese specialist, a friendly and helpful cheesemonger named Jodi. Jodi had just cracked a new wheel of Fontina Val d’Aosta and had The Lady sample it… rattus, one more time I was not in the right cheese place at the right cheese time… The Lady says that Chuck’s doesn’t allow pets… what’s up with that??? Another “feline restricted” establishment… but I digress…
Chuck’s also has a kitchen and classroom area where they offer free classes and events. This Tuesday, May 17th, Jodi will be conducting a class about lesser-known Italian cheeses from 530pm to 630pm. The Lady has it on our “cheese calendar” and plans to attend. The following Tuesday (May 23rd), Jodi will discuss “Bargain and Value Cheeses” from 530pm to 630pm. Again, you will most likely find The Lady there. That class sounds similar in concept to The Lady’s “Everyday Cheeses”. Other classes/events offered at the store include “Vegetarian Picnic Foods” (May 25th) and Healthy Snack Foods for Kids (May 31st – taught by Dr. Kate).
I give Chuck’s Produce and Street Market 4 Paws out of 4 Paws (cause that’s all I’ve got). If you live in Vancouver, Washington, you really should check out this store…
The first cheese we tasted today was Alpenhorn, a young hybrid cheese made by Unikaas, a respected Dutch Gouda cheese manufacturer. It is a marriage between a Dutch Gouda and a Swiss Emmenthal; younger and softer than the aged version of its “parents”. (BTW, Uniekaas also produces another cheese that we simply crave around the manse, the sublime Parrano.)
This cheese has a rich, deep yellow color (ingredients include annatto, a derivative of the achiote tree, used to produce a yellow to orange food coloring) with lots of well-formed baby eyes. It has a creamy texture and mild taste. While it works well on a cheese plate, I think it would do better paired with a nice juicy slice of Foster Farms’ Gallus gallus between two slabs of crusty bread and grilled to perfection with Golden Glen Creamery Farmstead Butter…
I give Alpenhorn, the cheese and not the musical instrument, 3 Paws out of 4 Paws (cause that’s all I’ve got).
Serving Suggestions: As listed above, use it in a grilled cheese. The Lady also thought it would be a great choice for fondue because of both its mild flavor and creaminess. I suppose, but I always burn my paws when I join in the “fondue fun”.
Wine Suggestion: The Lady thinks this cheese would be well served by a glass of Tawny Post.
Beer Suggestion: Helles
Source: Pasteurized Cow’s Milk
Cahill’s Irish Cheddar with Whiskey
Vegetarian-Suitable (as are all Cahill Cheeses)
The second cheese The Lady snagged at Chuck’s made The Man seriously swoon… I mean seriously swoon… Cahill’s Cheddar with Whiskey. The Lady and I have previously reviewed another Cahill’s Farmhouse cheese: their Original Irish Porter Cheese (another swooner… if you get my drift…).
Marion Cahill and her family have been making their cheeses for three generations and even though known around the world, they still craft them in the same old-fashioned way: handmade in small batches with great attention to the process. They haven’t sacrificed tradition for commercial venture. Many of their cheeses have won awards including this one we are reviewing here.
This cheddar is laced with Kilbeggan Irish Whiskey and you can smell the whiskey when you slice this cheese. The taste is more subtle than the scent; but it’s there and brings an extra dimension to an already creamy, full-flavored mature cheddar. The nutty flavor of the cheese combines with the whiskey to deliver quite a tasty savory finish. Of the two, The Man liked this one better and it was mano-a-feline to get a fair share… The Man simply doesn’t understand the concept of sharing… sheesh…
We have always been fans of Mary Cahill and her cheeses and this just solidifies our love for her cheeses all the more.
Serving Suggestions: I think this cheese should be served “Naked” to do it justice. Just pop it on top of a 34° Natural Crispbread Cracker and you’re good to go.
Wine Suggestions: This time, you gotta go with Kilbeggan Irish Whiskey and forget the vino…
Beer Suggestions: Why not Guinness and call this an Irish Cheese Boilermaker???
Source: The Cows on the Cahill Farm in County Limerick, Ireland…
Which brings to mind…
There is an Irish lassie named Marion
Who makes wondrous cheese; all vegetarian.
Quality cheese that’s handmade; then skillfully purveyed.
To eat her cheese, I’d gladly give up fresh carrion…
(The Lady has since visited Chuck’s a second time and picked up a wedge of Fiscalini’s San Joaquin Gold, a cheese I had begged her to buy… a review will follow soon…)Follow @cheesemonger
May 1, 2011
The Dairy Farmers of Canada held their bi-annual cheese awards this past week and announced winners in seventeen categories plus the grand champion:
Louis D’or!! A nine-month aged farmhouse and organic cheese from La Fromagerie du Presbytere located in Quebec. This cheese also won in two categories: Firm Cheese and Farmhouse Cheese. Congratulations!!! La Fromagerie du Presbytere also took the Blue Cheese Category with their Bleu de l’Elizabeth.
The Lady and I have not had the pleasure of tasting this cheese but you can be sure, The Lady is already ferreting out a way to get a wedge into the manse. According to Phil Belanger, Chair of the 2011 Canadian Cheese Grand Prix Jury and President of the New-Brunswick Chapter de la Chaine des Rotisseurs, ‘’The milky richness of this cheese is a tribute to the organic milk with which it is made. The cheese has a smooth texture, warm nutty and floral notes in aroma and taste’’.
Fresh Cheese: Mascarpone Tre Stelle, Arla Foods Inc. (ON)
Soft Cheese with Bloomy Rind: Island Bries, Little Qualicum Cheeseworks Ltd. (BC)
Semi-soft Cheese: Lankaaster Traditional Gouda, Glengarry Fine Cheese (ON)
Washed-Rind – Soft and Semi-soft Cheese: Le Mont-Jacob, Fromagerie Blackburn (QC)
Firm Cheese: Louis d’Or, Fromagerie du Presbytere (QC)
Swiss-type Cheese: Fromage Suisse Lamaire, Fromagerie Lemaire (QC)
Mozzarella: Bocconcini Santa Lucia, International Cheese Co. Ltd (ON)
Blue Cheese: Le Bleu d’Elizabeth, Fromagerie du Presbytere (QC)
Flavoured Cheese with Added Non-particulate Flavouring: Naturally Smoked Boerenkaas, Natural Pastures Company (BC)
Flavoured Cheese with Added Particulate Solids Flavouring: Gouda Herbs & Garlic, Sylvan Star Cheese Ltd. (AB)
Mild Cheddar: Mild Cheddar, The Black River Cheese Company Ltd. (ON)
Medium Cheddar: Cheddar moyen Biologique, Fromagerie L’Ancetre (QC)
Old, Extra Old Cheddar: Le Jersey du Fjord, Bergeries du Fjord (QC)
Aged Cheddar (1-3 years): Avonlea Clothbound Cheddar, Cows Creamery (PEI)
Aged Cheddar (4years+): Cheddar Doyen 4 ans, Fromagerie Perron (QC)
Farmhouse Cheese: Louis D’or, Fromagerie du Presbytere (QC)
The Lady and I congratulate all the winners and hope to soon taste each and every one of them…Follow @cheesemonger
The Lady, The Man and I will be there to check out all the great cheeses, meet some cheesemakers and The Lady will attend a few seminars to sharpen her skills as a cheesemonger. I also have it on good authority that she submitted one of our Grilled Cheese recipes into the Grilled Cheese Contest… we’ll just have to wait and see if she wins…
More than thirty cheesemakers are scheduled to be on site to sample their cheeses along with many specialty food vendors and distributors. There will be cooking demonstrations by area chefs, a mozzarella making demo and a beer and cheese pairing seminar. Something for everyone who loves cheese.
If you’re anywhere near Seattle that weekend and you love cheese… then this is the place to be.
As amazing as this sounds, The Lady chose the Cheese Festival over the PGA Players’ Tournament aka the “fifth major”… but as you might guess, the DVR is already set and ready to record…
October 21, 2010
September 10, 2010
As part of our Cheese 101 project, The Lady is sharing the seven seminars she attended at the recent American Cheese Society Conference in Seattle.
The first seminar she attended delved into the concept of terroir and how place affects taste.
Terroir is a concept dating back to 14th Century France and is the belief that the land, the environment and the producer each have a unique effect on the taste of the product they are making.
Originally, the concept applied first to wine, but over time cheese became part of terroir. Terroir also led to the Appellation systems of France, Spain, Italy and the EU whereby particular products from specific areas are “protected” by the governments creating standards unique to the product and the area where it is produced. Under the protected designations wine makers cannot produce a sangiovese wine and call it Chianti unless it is produced in Tuscany. Although the Pinot noir grape is used to produce wine in the Willamette Valley, the producers cannot call it Burgundy as that is a protected name for pinot noir produced in the Burgundy region of France.
Ironically, the word terroir only came into existence in the late 1800s and was created as a marketing tool for the wine makers in France.
Janet Fletcher began the seminar explaining her definition of terroir is “the impact of environment on flavor”. She asked if anyone in the audience thought terroir was bunk and only one hand was raised.
I heard a story a few years back that a certain award-winning cheesemaker of raw milk cheeses in California, stated that his cheese would taste exactly the same no matter where he made it and no matter where his herd grazed. Believers of terroir were scandalized by this statement.
Dr. Amy Trubek from the University of Vermont was the first speaker. She is an Assistant Professor of Nutrition and Food Sciences and previously taught at the New England Culinary Institute. She is best known for her book, “Taste of Place”, which explores the multifaceted connections between taste and place in both cuisine and agriculture in the USA. At the University of Vermont she has been studying wines, cheeses, maple syrups and even hickory nuts and how the land, the environment and the producer affects the taste of the final product.
One example is an ongoing study of Tarentaise, an Alpine-style cheese made from raw milk by two dairy farms in Vermont. The recipes are based on the European cheese, Beaufort. Thistle Hill and Spring Brook farms both produce this cheese and are located less than twenty miles apart in Vermont near the foot of the Green Mountains. In this experiment, they took milk from the two farms and transported it to the same cheesemaking facility. The two milks were given to one cheesemaker who used the same recipe to make Tarentaise and began the aging in the same cave facility. Everything, except the milks, is the same. This study will continue for at least two years. At nine months, the two cheeses were tasted and one had a distinct garlic and onion taste which the other lacked. At this point, the study directed its efforts on the farms and found that what the cows were eating was the difference. Both herds were pasture-fed but the grasses and other growth in the meadows was different. Definitely “the taste of place” is in play in this experiment.
The next speaker was a Frenchman, Ivan Larcher, who is a consultant to cheesemakers who are starting their first dairies. He was a farmstead cheesemaker in France. As a Frenchman, he exhibits an “ownership” of the terroir concept and is quite specific in his thoughts about it. (I mean this is a positive way and not as a criticism.)
He believes that terroir cannot be created; it is something you “get”; it’s what you are and it’s what you do. Terroir is the result of humans, practices, heritage, landscape and the direct influence of the microbiological ecosystem of the area. He stated positively that pasteurization of milk destroys the terroir. To realize the benefits and results of terroir, the cheese must be made from raw milk; there are no exceptions to this rule.
According to Larcher, the flavor of cheese is a combination of milk (20%), microbiology (40%) and enzymes (40%).
He also stressed the point that of the millions of kinds of bacteria, only 4 or 5 are bad; the rest are good and necessary to produce flavorful cheese and preserve the terroir of the product. His inference is that the US Government needs to change the laws regarding raw milk products.
The last speaker was Mateo Kehler who makes Bayley Hazen Blue at Jasper Hill Farm. In addition to the Tarentaise project at UV, Kehler spoke about a Vermont Cheddar project also being conducted that is using milk from four different dairies to make cheddar.
He stated that geographical indicators create terroir but went beyond the concept and discussed the globalization of cheesemaking. With his brother, Andy, Kehler has built seven caves for aging and for cheesemakers who cannot age their own cheeses, the brothers will. They want to make artisan cheesemaking into a multi-million dollar enterprise. From what I know, it seems they will be quite successful.
At Jasper Hill, he is also developing a program that will uniform the making of Bayley Hazen Blue and franchise it to cheesemakers other than Jasper Hill.
I left the seminar with a better understanding of terroir and a firm believer that it exists.
It’s hard to believe The Lady and I have been on our cheese adventure for a little more than two years. It’s been a great time; we’ve learned a lot about cheese (but so much more to learn…) and we’ve met lots of other great cheese nurds… to cap the two-year journey, we spent last week at the American Cheese Society Conference in Seattle and loved every minute of it, rubbing elbows with all the Cheese Swells.
On our one year anniversary we listed the top ten pages on our blog and you can read that page by clicking here.
We thought we’d also do a top ten at the end of year two and here it is:
- Le Cendrillon Wins Best Cheese in the World (The Lady and I tasted this last week and we’ll write a review in the next few days…)
- 2. The Beemster Cheese Family
- 3. Beer, Cheese and Food Pairings Chart
- 4. Index of Cheese Reviews
- 5. Hard Italian Cheeses
- 6. Cheese and Wine Pairings Chart
- 7. Ilchester’s Applewood Smoky Cheddar
- 8. Cahill’s Original Irish Porter Cheese
- 9. Dessert Cheese – White Stilton with Fruit
- 10. French Brie
The Lady and I thank you for your visits and support as we continue our cheese journey into the future…